From imported luxury to detested health hazard to essential Covid lockdown supply, canned fruits have had a complicated relationship with Chinese consumers
Wang Kai’s grandma pronounced him sick, and the bittersweet wait began. He sat at home twiddling his thumbs, as grandma marched downstairs to the corner shop, eventually returning with a pot-bellied glass jar glowing with golden slices of peaches that swam in syrup inside. Wang would wait a few minutes longer, while she set the jar on the balcony for a proper chilling from Harbin’s icy winter cold, before he could finally gulp down this sweet, refreshing delight.
Canny Treat is a story from our issue, “Promised Land.” To read the entire issue, become a subscriber and receive the full magazine. Alternatively, you can purchase the digital version from the App Store.